Extremes

Today has been a day of extremes and contrasts.

I began my morning with a quiet run around the streets of Bombay with Eddie.  The city was just waking up, as it was approaching 7'o'clock.  Because of the sheer amount of people, poverty, and lack of infrastructure, a number of people sleep on the streets.  Also rampant on the streets were stray dogs and cats, not yet awake from their evening rest.  As the run progressed, more and more Indians emerged to sweep or rinse their street-vending area; or they emerged to wash cars, likely used for a rickshaw business.  The ownership of personal space and business was striking in these moments, as the city, which appears to be so dirty, is personally kept-up each day.  Over the past few days we have remarked about how the city just needs a good power-washing.  Obviously, that is not the top priority of the country, nor is that part of how these people know and experience the world.

We began our morning by eating at a quaint, European-inspired café.

Caption: It looks like cafés at home!

Caption: We had egg sandwiches, pomegranate-lime juice, and banana bread.  It was delicious!

After this breakfast, we took the train system to Dharavi, the slum known from its portrayal in the 2008 movie Slumdog Millionaire.

Caption: On the train to Dharavi!

We were fortunate to take a tour of the slum with the local NGO: Reality Tours and Travel.  This tour was incredibly instructive in deconstructing my ideas of what a slum is like, who lives there, and why it exists.  Before I go any further, it was not disrespectful for us to take a tour through the slum; this was not poverty tourism.  Rather, it was an educational journey that helped make us ambassadors promoting Dharavi to others.

Caption: From the train station to Daharvi: the apartments above the greenery (not the tall ones in the far distance) were our first glimpse into the slum.

The Dharavi Slum covers about .75 square miles, and it is home to 1 million (officially) to 1.5 million (unofficially) people.  About a third of this population is composed of permanent residents of the slum, as it has been their family’s tradition for the past hundred and some years.  Another third of this population comprises transient workers – men who come from small villages to earn money for their families back home.  The final third of this population is made of entrepreneurs looking to make it big with their business ventures.

I realize this last statement might sound shocking or misplaced.  Yet the Dharavi Slum produces billions – let me repeat: billions – of money for the Indian economy each year.  Without this slum, the economy of India might not survive.  Why?  Many items are recycled and turned into raw materials again here, like plastics.  Other “trash” is stripped of metal and wiring to be reused.

Caption: Materials for recycling and conversion into raw parts.

Additionally, many residents have embroidery and textile businesses that contract with big-name, branded providers.  We saw luggage fashioned and branded; shirts sewn and labeled; clay pots being formed and dried; hides of sheep being tanned and formed into leather purses, belts, etc.

Caption: Dharavi from the rooftop of a small apartment

Now, to the living conditions of these citizens.  Yes, it is a slum – so, yes, it is dirty and has an odor.  However, the sense of community prevalent was quite contrary to my preconceived notions.  We saw the school where all children are required (by law) to attend.  We saw the neighboring behaviors of those living near one another, children playing in the streets, and bartering going on in the main marketplace.

Caption: This image is from the pottery area of Dharavi.

This slum was not the depraved image of disparity and sadness I anticipated.  This is not to discount the gravity of the citizens’ situations, as they are living in poverty and less than sanitary conditions.  Leaving this experience, I have a greater understanding of and appreciation for the livelihoods of the people in this community.  It is a necessary economic engine for the country, and it is a vibrant community for those who live there.  If you ever find yourself in Mumbai, please take three-hours to tour this slum.  It is an experience you will not forget.

Back to the day of contrasts.

We exited the slum and had our air-conditioned, chartered bus waiting for us.  We took this to the other side of Mumbai – the Beverly Hills area.  We stopped at a hipster-esque restaurant that served Angry Birds desserts!   Then, we traveled to Meboob studios where Bollywood films are produced.

Caption: Angy Birds desserts – how cool!

Caption: The sign outside the Bollywood studio!

Because of the connections of our overall tour guides (who own and operate IndoGenius), Nick and Meeto, we were able to walk onto the set of a film!  It was really cool to behind-the-scenes of this major entertainment and cultural industry for India.  Although we were not filmed and did not see the primary movie star on set that day, we learned about the industry and its prominent place in the national imaginary.  As it was explained to us, Bollywood films have a typical make: man meets woman in a slow motion, dramatic scene; woman and man like one another; they fall in love; and they sing songs and dance throughout the entire 2.5 hours.  This construction does not vary, as many Indians use the cinema as a time to escape the world and remove themselves from the realities or harshness of society.

Finally, we concluded our day with a talk at the home of a famous Indian fashion designer, James Ferreira.  He invited us into his home and discussed his efforts to save the historic Portuguese district of Mumbai.  The historic district is nestled within the city and captures the architecture and style of the Portuguese when they lived in India.  In addition, the district is one of the few majority Christian (and Catholic) areas of Mumbai.

Caption: Image of the streets leading up to the Portuguese district.

As James explained, the property value on the homes is incredibly high.  If the homes were to be torn down and high-rise apartments erected, the owners could make $50 billion easily.  However, the preservation of the homes and historical tie to Portugal is important and is the cause for which James fights.

Caption: the inside of James’ Portuguese-inspired home where we chatted for the evening.

In this day of contrasts and extremes, I observed beautiful downtown living, a fanaticized entertainment industry, and the poor conditions of those in slums.  It is a lot to process.  Yet this again points to the diversity of India I discussed yesterday.  Sure, this diversity is present in every society.  What is striking is the inclusion of all of these things in such a visible fashion in the same city.

I hope that tomorrow is just as insightful!